Most people don’t fail in skincare because they lack passion or taste. They fail because they hire the wrong type of help at the wrong stage. And the industry doesn’t make this easy. Titles are vague. Capabilities overlap. Some businesses intentionally blur lines. Others simply don’t know what they don’t know. This guide exists so you can make an informed decision before money, time, and momentum are lost.
The Independent Formulator
What this usually means:
- One person
- Often working from home or a shared space
- May or may not be formally trained as a chemist
- Focused primarily on creating a formula
What they’re good at:
This is often a cost-effective starting point and they enjoy researching ingredients. They are great and creating 500 g batches and often release the IP (formula ownership) to you.
What their limitations are:
Since formulation is only a small piece of the puzzle with launching a brand it’s good to know you may be responsible for all the ‘extras’. These can include things like testing. Independent formulators often lack equipment and infrastructure to stabalize and micro test the formulation. Outsourcing this is added cost to you. They will also not always have expertise in regulatory, packaging compatibility and sourcing as well as scale up.
Risk to founders:
Your formulation may not survive manufacturing or be cost bloated. Your are often left to investigate contract manufactures on your own – this also puts you at risk of loosing IP, formulation changes or managing your own project in a world that is not very transparent. The ingredients MOQ can be mismatched to your production MOQ, this may result in wasted ingredients that you still have to pay for.
Best for:
Small shop owners looking for low minimums for internal sales, Etsy sellers, or if IP ownership and scale up is not important.
Not best for:
Founders looking for safety, growth opportunities, comprehensive guidance, security of investment.
Contract Manufacturers
What they are:
These are literally manufacturers. They are large sq footage, full line equipment, efficiency and repeatability. They produce your formulation. The heat it, mix it, fill your packaging, apply labels, fold boxes and prepare your product in a retail ready formate. Formulation is secondary.
What they’re good at:
A good contract manufacturer is an expert at consistency, packaging and fulfillment in large volumes, and following GMP (good manufacturing practices) compliance. They are scheduled and predictable.
What their limitations are:
CM’s are not development/formulation first. They will often have staff to create simple formulas or stock formulas for use. You will not own these – so you can not change manufacturers. Branding, design, regulatory are usually not in their wheelhouse.
Risk to founders:
Using only a contract manufacturer often limits you in terms of creativity and formulation development. You will not own your formulation and be locked into the manufacturers system. Relationships may feel rushed and transactional. You will be responsible for all the gaps of the project.
Best for:
Brands who already have formulas, stability tested, micro tested, claims tested, packaging compatibility, regulatory compliance, branding and sales. Companies that need to scale up to larger MOQ (minimum order quantities) of 10,000+ units. Founders that are already in scale and distribution. Experienced brands is a bonus!
Not best for:
Startups who require guidance, advice, oversight and attention. Founders who value custom formulations made to spec. Brands needing small batch and then to scale. Founders with a risk aversion to managing their own production runs.
A Comprehensive Development Studio (Our Model)
This is where confusion often peaks, because this model is rare.
What this actually means:
This model has a full formulation lab AND a production lab AND a creative department. This system has focus on custom formulations, small batch production with room to scale BIG and branding/design integration to ensure seamless delivery of idea to retail shelf. You own your formulation outright so you can grow in production and geographic location. Regulatory and packaging assistance and planning keeps you safe and moving forward with limited delays. Full microbial starting and stability documents are completed before any sales even take place.
What this model is good at:
Full brand and formulation development, package sourcing, scaling options, safety data, regulatory assistance. Basically those founders ready to develop and launch real world brands while minimizing their risk.
Limitations of this model:
This model will have higher up front costs, but be inclusive. This model can also involve a considerable amount of the founders time as they are guided through all the decisions that need to be made. Not suitable for someone wanting fast and cheap.
Best for:
Founders wanting to lower risk. This system has fewer handoffs, fewer surprises and clear accountability. If you are looking to partner with a lab that understands both science, design and business to build your foundation, this is a strong choice.
Not best for:
Low investment founders. Hands off founders looking for “product” to sell. If you’re new to skincare, the most dangerous position you can be in is alone with partial information. This industry looks approachable from the outside. There are templates, checklists, TikToks, private label catalogs, and people who make it sound like you can “figure it out as you go.” That illusion is exactly where most early mistakes are born.
- Skincare is not forgiving.
- Chemistry does not care about confidence.
- Regulators do not care that you’re learning.
- And consumers do not care that you meant well.
Most of the problems we see do not come from recklessness. They come from people doing their best with incomplete guidance. Here’s what almost no one tells you at the beginning:
- You don’t need to know everything. But you do need someone who does.
- There is no shame in getting help early, but there is a cost to pretending you don’t need it.
- The beauty industry is worth a whopping 600 Billion dollars and growing.
- It is competitive and full of new brands wanting to get a piece of it.
You need to decide.
what your long term goals will be and that will help you choose where to start. Some want speed, control, or more certainty. All of it comes with a price tag. What matters is being honest about which one you’re optimizing for, and choosing support that aligns with that reality.
At the end of the day, this is your brand, your money, and your name on the label. The responsibility doesn’t disappear just because someone else is involved. But the burden doesn’t have to be carried alone either.
- You’re allowed to move carefully.
- You’re allowed to ask questions.
- You’re allowed to choose depth over hype.
- And you’re allowed to take the time to do it right.
- The choice is always yours.